For good blooming, 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight is needed. Rooting Cuttings. Growing season care. Exposure Plumerias like full sun. Insects Aphids cause leaves to curl. More than one application may be required. This is a highly loaded topic. A beginner should start with a moderate, balanced fertilizer, such as a Your plumeria has three basic needs: Water Sunlight Food If you provide these, they will reward you with many lovely blooms. Water Water is very important to your plumeria.
Sunlight 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight is needed for good blooming of your plumeria. Fertilization This is a highly loaded topic. Those products are supposed to help protect the plants from the cold. Some are concerned with fertilizing so late in the season, as new growth is more susceptible to cold weather. But I know of other growers who have done this for a long time with good results.
As for my pots, I put them in my greenhouses, which are not insulated and are unheated. So they are basically in there for protection from frost settling on them. And it works well for that, but there are other dangers. For instance, occasional hot spells in March and April can cause sunburn or rot in a hot greenhouse.
I use a sun shade and open the greenhouse to keep internal temps down. Running fans in the greenhouses also keeps air circulating and temps down. For my bag-rooted cuttings, they go in the greenhouse on heating mats on a table covered with wool blankets for insulation. For most people with one plant or those who have a small collection of Plumeria, winter protection can be fairly easy. Remember, no leaves, no water. If you live in the coastal region, you can bring your plant under a patio or porch cover for the winter and it should be fine.
In areas of the county that receive frost, you need to take more steps to protect your plant. Frost damage can cause branch dieback, with branches basically turning to mush. If you cut into the branch, you will generally find a black or brown goo. I live in Jamul in the east county, so protecting my Plumeria collection from cold is an issue I deal with every year.
I start my protection process by stopping all fertilizer in September. This stops new tender growth from forming very late in the season, which would be more susceptible to damage in the winter. In mid-December I move all my first-year cuttings and seedlings into my home.
As many other potted plants as possible go into the greenhouse which is unheated. I place several buckets of water amongst the plants in the greenhouse. The water heats up during sunny days and that heat is dispersed at night to help keep temperatures inside the greenhouse tolerable for plants. The bulk of my collection is in pots and can easily be moved under a porch, eaves, or awnings; this protects them from rain and frost as the overhead covering acts as a barrier to the night sky.
The plants are as close to the house as possible. I have thirty-eight trees in the ground that I choose not to dig up. Some people dig theirs up every year and store them bare-root style in garages, spare rooms, in rafters, etc.
This method seems popular in Texas. My in-ground trees receive rainwater during the winter, not much I can do to prevent that. My soil is decomposed granite DG , and therefore very fast draining. Plumeria seem to tolerate a bit of cold, but cold and wet at the roots is a big problem, so the drier you can keep your plants when they have no leaves, the better.
To protect my in-ground trees, I place pipe insulation around the tips and base of each tree. If the temperatures are predicted to be in the low 30s overnight, I cover the trees with sheets or frost cloths. Some people also string small holiday lights on their Plumeria to add a bit of warmth. You can build a mini-greenhouse around your tree by building a wood frame taller than the branches and covering the sides and top with heavy plastic.
Protecting Plumerias Over Winter We asked a number of our experts how they care for their plumerias before and during the winter months.
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